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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor


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3 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   Joshuadavis9

Joshuadavis9

    New Escape Member

  • Escape Member
  • 1 posts
  • LocationPhenix City, AL
  • Current Vehicle:2005 Ford Escape

Posted 20 December 2011 - 05:00 PM

Happy holidays everyone! I'm not the biggest gear head that has ever written on this forum, but thought I'd share what I learned with my problem. I have a 2005 Ford Escape (4x4, 3.0L Duratec). It popped the code P0193 ( Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit high input....which I'll refer to as FRPS). After multiple people told me different things, i.e., location of problem, parts and tools needed to replace the issue, and various other suggestions, I ended up going to a Ford dealership and buying it from them. It was $125 for the part and, for my own curiosity, it would have been $276 for labor to do the job plus the price of the FRPS. All said and done, we spent no more than 10 minutes to do this job and we were done. Forgive me if I don't know all the technical names of the pieces below. For those of you that don't own your own mechanics shop and are not mechanically saavy, this is what you do to fix this:


1. Unplug the negative terminal connector (black one, NOT red) from the battery and set aside between two pieces of plastic. Just make sure it doesn't touch medal. Doing this will also reset your check engine light as well.

2. Unplug the fuel pump fuse (see the owner's manual for location...I didn't take a picture of it)

3. Start vehicle and run it until it dies to relieve pressure.

4. Unscrew to bolts inside the red circle.

5. Disconnect the electrical attachment

6. Disconnect hose on back of Pressure Sensor.

7. Once everything is disconnected, pull straight up on piece. Be sure to pull up with a little effort, it has a snug fit. Of note, you will see gasoline when you lift up the FRPS so be careful so as not to let debris fall in there.

8. Install new FRPS and reconnect hoses

9. Put the fuel pump fuse back in.

10. Reconnect negative battery terminal

11. BEFORE YOU START THE VEHICLE, you need to prime it. Do this by turning the key in the ON position and wait a few seconds for the fuel pressure to build back up and turn and then turn it off. Do this 3-5 times then start your vehicle.


Even reading this step-by-step, it shouldn't take more than 15 minutes total. It's VERY EASY. Best of luck to you and hope this helps.

Attached Files


  • Yjake, lisakson, Mokosescape and 2 others like this

#2 OFFLINE   bryanloop

bryanloop

    New Escape Member

  • Escape Member
  • 1 posts
  • Region:U.S. Mississippi Valley
  • LocationMissouri
  • Current Vehicle:2006 Ford Escape

Posted 30 November 2015 - 07:57 AM

I just replaced the sensor on my wife's 2006 Escape by following these instructions. Thank you! Some very important points to add:

 

1. I recommend disconnecting the hose and the electrical connector from the old sensor first, and then removing the two bolts. Then, BEFORE you try to pull out the old sensor, rotate it slightly clockwise and counterclockwise to get a good feel for what a properly installed sensor feels like. This will be important later, because ...

 

2. When installing the new sensor, it's IMPERATIVE that you properly seat its O-ring it in the fuel rail. This needs to be done BEFORE you torque down the bolts. Seat the O-ring by pressing down very firmly on the sensor and rotating it slightly clockwise and counterclockwise several times. When it feels like the old sensor did before you removed it, you probably have it right. Torque down the two bolts, then reinstall the hose and electrical connector.

 

3. GET A FIRE EXTINGUISHER and have it ready. Why? Because if you didn't properly seat the O-ring seal, it doesn't matter how tight you torqued those two bolts -- gasoline is going to start running all over the engine. (Guess how I found this out? No, I didn't set the Escape on fire, but there was a LOT of gas everywhere. If the engine had been hot, it could have been a disaster.)

 

4. Start the engine and IMMEDIATELY check for dripping fuel -- if there's any dripping fuel, IMMEDIATELY shut off the engine, remove the hose and electrical connector, remove the bolts and try to re-seat the O-ring. I had to do this numerous times until it would properly seat. Again: It doesn’t matter how tight you get those two bolts; tightening them doesn’t seat the O-ring.

 

5. There's certainly nothing wrong with depressurizing the fuel system by pulling the fuel pump fuse (It's the #5 fuse in the fuse block that's by the battery, NOT the fuse panel that's inside the car), but in my experience, it wasn't necessary. I removed the sensor from a fully pressurized system and didn't get any fuel spray.



#3 OFFLINE   65Val

65Val

    New Escape Member

  • Escape Member
  • 1 posts
  • Region:Canada British Columbia
  • LocationVan Isle
  • Current Vehicle:2005 Ford Escape

Posted 04 May 2016 - 01:03 PM

Thanks for the great post guys. My wife's Escape just threw a P0193 code and my el-cheapo scanner says Fuel pressure sensor circuit high. I will be replacing the sensor and hope it fixes it.

 

We also just got through the dreaded "Spark plug/Coil Pack/ Fried computer" fiasco.

 

Thanks again.......



#4 OFFLINE   bmmb724

bmmb724

    New Escape Member

  • Escape Member
  • 1 posts
  • Region:U.S. Southern Atlantic
  • LocationNorcross, Ga
  • Current Vehicle:2005 ford Escape 3.0L

Posted 19 November 2017 - 07:33 AM

Like 65Val      I just paid 2.600 dollars at the Ford dealership for the dreaded "Spark plug/Coil Pack/ Fried computer". On a 2005 Escape V6 3.0L 87,000 miles. Three days later the Check Engine light came on with the P1093 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor A Circuit High code. I don't like to fool around with gas. So back to the repair shop. NAPA has the part for 125 bucks.

 

Thanks 65Val didn't know that was a common problem














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