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  1. Last week
  2. I have the Titanium Hybrid model with all the extra seating bells and whistles When sitting in the driver seat there is a hard item under the leather at the back of the seat that digs into the back of my butt. It may be the wiring harness but it is uncomfortable. I have taken it for service where they adjusted the wiring but I still feel it. Even the service person could feel it when they sat in it. I sat in a new Escape in the showroom and could feel a similar bump, but not as noticeable as mine. They say that this was the way the car was engineered and there is not much they can do. I found another post on the internet where someone else was complaining that it felt like an iron bar digging into their butt but have been unable to locate the post again. Anyone else have this problem.
  3. Tony

    Hybrid mpg's?

    I;ve got a new 2020 Hybrid and so far I'm getting a little over 39 combined driving back and forth to work. About 60% of the that is interstate at 75 mph and the other 30% in town 40 - 55 mph. I'm using the ECO mode most of the time.
  4. Just FYI for anyone else interested in the cargo cover. This is the part number: LJ6Z-78550A74-AA This is the best price I've found: https://www.oemfordpartsdirect.com/cart You can get the pins you need 3D printed here for less than $13.00: https://www.makexyz.com/
  5. What is the part number for the cover?
  6. This bushing is under the shifter in the center console that connects the shifter to the cable to change gears. I can't seem to find a part number for replacement. Anyone have any information? Thanks, Randy.
  7. elstraitjacket

    Hello from DC!

    Awesome! Those 1st Gen MS3s are gorgeous!
  8. MikeHTally

    Hello from DC!

    Welcome aboard. I had a 2008 Speed 3 I traded on a '15 Mustang EB Convertible last year. The motors are so similar, they must be first cousins. The Escape's motor shares some stuff, too.
  9. Hey all, I just programmed two fobs on my 2006 Escape XLS. When I hit UNLOCK, on the fob nothing happens; UNLOCK twice and all the doors unlock-except the driver's side door. Unlock button on the door will also unlock all doors except driver's side. Pushing LOCK on the fob/door button will lock everything. Would this be an issue with the actuator/solenoid on the DS door lock? Bonus: when I hit PANIC, the lights faintly blink but the horn doesn't sound. Pushing on the steering wheel horn button will make the horn sound. I just bought the car and haven't been able to find a wiring diagram. Also searched these forums but didn't find anyone with quite the same issue. Any advice would be appreciated!
  10. elstraitjacket

    Hello from DC!

    What's up everyone! I've never been a Ford guy (had an Integra that had about 300k on it before I got rid of it and now have a Mazda) but I just picked up an 06 Escape for dirt cheap from a friend. It's got a manual trans and the same 2.3L engine as my Mazda; it's essentially a Mazda Tribute apparently. I'm pumped to have this as a fun camping/fishing/adventure car! Been working on it, getting new tires, replacing suspension, etc. Next thing is to replace front brakes-calipers, rotors, and pads, as one of the calipers is seizing.
  11. ImDavid

    2017 Escape code issue

    Hi folks, Question for you. One week ago we took a trip but before going I stopped and filled up our 2017 Escape. When I started it up it acted like it was flooded for a couple of seconds then fired up. The next thing I know the check engine light is on. After we got back I ran my code reader and it showed P1450, p2196 and p1450. The car has 060898 miles on it if that matters. Does this sound like its the purge valve? if so that means I would have to replace the whole harness on the engine correct? Im just wondering if Im on the right track....if I have to replace that harness Im thinking I might let the mechanics deal with it from everything I have seen on You Tube. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thank You.
  12. MikeHTally

    Cleaning wax around emblems

    Microfiber towel and a fingertip. Yeah, I know - thread from the dead.
  13. HPar

    Burning smell on a 08 Escape Limited

    I get the same thing on my 08 and I’ve noticed it always happens after an oil change. On my 3.0L V6, the oil filter is located at the front of the engine above the front exhaust manifold. It is very difficult to change the oil filter without getting some oil on the exh manifold.
  14. Earlier
  15. MikeHTally

    Before you had your Escape Ecoboost, what did you have?

    Since my Escape didn't replace anything, I guess there was no "before" in this context. Before my '15 EB Mustang, the previous Ford was an '89 F-150 with a healthy appetite for gas and alternators.
  16. MikeHTally

    Where is the best place to purchase extended warranty from

    IMHO, an extended warranty is a needless crap-shoot. You're betting something that's covered will fail, they're betting it won't. The odds are on their side. When I bought my EB Mustang, I took what the credit union quoted for minimum coverage and put that in a savings account. I've added to it over the months, but if I need it, it'll be there. If I don't need it (and I'm betting on that), it'll STILL be there.
  17. MikeHTally

    Hi, all from N. Florida

    Hello, All. I've lurked for a few days - figured I'd sign up. I just bought a '19 Escape Titanium, looking (and lurking) to learn about my new ride. I also have a '15 EB Mustang convertible and an '03 Dodge Hemi Ram quad cab.
  18. pete

    dead battery

    hello luvmyescape check battery fluid levels if this battery has filler caps. make sure to top off with distilled water to bottom of fill caps. assuming the battery will accept a charge( no dead cells or beyond charging) should be fine to trickle charge the way you describe. just make sure to get good connections with the trickle charger clamps. positive to the battery FIRST. then connect ground on firewall terminal last.
  19. luvmyescape

    dead battery

    Hey Guys...glad to be a member of your forum, my question I have a 2017 Escape Titanium and I have a simple question that I need your help with. I went to start it today and nothing, I am pretty sure battery is dead as I don"t drive it much. What I want to know is I want to charge it back up as I am pretty sure it just needs recharged....can I recharge it the same way it shows to jump start it using the bolt one the firewall for negative connection. It shows using negative terminal connected at firewall for jump start and positive off of battery. I would like to trickle charge it that way...can I do it? Would like to keep battery as I am pretty sure it is o.k......thanks in advance for your help
  20. The wiper motors on my Escape have taken on a life of their own. Driver side motor does no come on and passenger side wiper slaves down toward the engine compartment even though the wipers are never turned on. Windshield washer work squirting water on front windshield and also in rear windshield when the switch is activated. Rear wiper works as it should on command and performs the tasks assigned by the operator on,off, intermittent, spray, etc. Front wipers different story the driver side motor never turns on. Even if you cycle them on, the driver side never Parks or moves. The passenger motor never makes the wiper travel up the windshield and instead want to dive down toward the engine compartment. The fuses for the wiper motors on the engine fuse block are good both the 20amp and the 50 amp are good. Also check power to the wiper motors at the connectors and I am getting power when I turn on the wipers switch inside the vehicle to ON. Any ideas would be appreciated. I just ordered the BSM (negative battery terminal w/sensor) and the switch stalk for this weekend.
  21. Gsanti61

    Welcoming and Introduction

    Good Afternoon Forum Members and DIY enthusiasts, My name is Gilbert, recent retiree and loyal Ford owner. In the household we have a 2007 and 2011 F-150, 2011 and 2013 Ford Escapes. I do most of the maintenance on the vehicles and keep them running. When I am not working on the trucks, I am out at the lake chillin. Just bought the 2013 Escape SE 1.6l in February and am currently trying to work all the bugs out.
  22. I just bought a 2020 Escape Hybrid, and I'm curious about how long the brakes (pads) lasted for those who owned the old hybrid Escape (the one that got discontinued after 2012). I have a 2007 Prius that is still on its first set of brakes (pads in front, drums in back) at 65K miles. Can I expect that kind of mileage on a Ford hybrid?
  23. Hello, New to forum. Tried Ford MoCo and local Ford Dealership. Unable to find the low speed cooling fan dropping resistor. Not located where Haynes manual indicates on my model. Hope someone can help! Thanks, Jeff
  24. I have a 2015 Escape SE. I posted this in Brakes, Chassis and Suspension but maybe it belongs in here as well? In February this year it started making a growling noise and my mechanic changed 2 press type bearings on the rear wheels. Immediately afterwards it started making an intermittent knocking sound when accelerating. As soon as I touched the brake pedal (not even applying pressure) the knocking stopped. I took it back to the mechanic and he drove it and couldn't hear it because it's intermittent and comes and goes at different times. He checked the car over and declared he could find nothing wrong. The knocking persists intermittently. Some days it happens, some days it does not. Can be at low speeds or high speeds. Only happens when driving straight, not when turning. I can make it stop by just touching the brake pedal, not even applying pressure. It can go a few days without knocking, or it can happen every day. Six weeks ago I had the winter tires taken off and summer ones put on by my mechanic, and the steering started pulling to the left and right, so I took it to a Ford dealer to get a wheel alignment ( I didn't mention the knocking sound). They did the alignment and rotated the wheels and miraculously the knocking stopped. Last week I returned to my mechanic to get new shocks on the rear and he also did a new press type bearing on one front (waiting for the other front to be done this week), and the knocking immediately started again. By my deductions, my mechanic did something to cause the knocking when he replaced the rear bearings in February. It was alleviated when the wheels were rotated six weeks ago, and it came back when my mechanic put on new shocks and a new bearing on the front last week. My mechanic is a great guy and has worked on my cars for 14 years, always ready to help and be of service. He can't figure it out and I am at my wits end. It's a loud knock, and seems to correlate to the wheels turning because as I speed up the knock gets faster and as I slow down the knock gets slower. Touching the brakes without applying pressure immediately stops the knock. Doesn't happen every time I drive it. Can be at any speed. Is there anybody here who can offer any advice? I want it to stop, and it could be dangerous.
  25. I have a 2015 Escape SE. In February this year it started making a growling noise and my mechanic changed 2 press type bearings on the rear wheels. Immediately afterwards it started making an intermittent knocking sound when accelerating. As soon as I touched the brake pedal (not even applying pressure) the knocking stopped. I took it back to the mechanic and he drove it and couldn't hear it because it's intermittent and comes and goes at different times. He checked the car over and declared he could find nothing wrong. The knocking persists intermittently. Some days it happens, some days it does not. Can be at low speeds or high speeds. Only happens when driving straight, not when turning. I can make it stop by just touching the brake pedal, not even applying pressure. It can go a few days without knocking, or it can happen every day. Six weeks ago I had the winter tires taken off and summer ones put on by my mechanic, and the steering started pulling to the left and right, so I took it to a Ford dealer to get a wheel alignment ( I didn't mention the knocking sound). They did the alignment and rotated the wheels and miraculously the knocking stopped. Last week I returned to my mechanic to get new shocks on the rear and he also did a new press type bearing on one front (waiting for the other front to be done this week), and the knocking immediately started again. By my deductions, my mechanic did something to cause the knocking when he replaced the rear bearings in February. It was alleviated when the wheels were rotated six weeks ago, and it came back when my mechanic put on new shocks and a new bearing on the front last week. My mechanic is a great guy and has worked on my cars for 14 years, always ready to help and be of service. He can't figure it out and I am at my wits end. It's a loud knock, and seems to correlate to the wheels turning because as I speed up the knock gets faster and as I slow down the knock gets slower. Touching the brakes without applying pressure immediately stops the knock. Doesn't happen every time I drive it. Can be at any speed. Is there anybody here who can offer any advice? I want it to stop, and it could be dangerous.
  26. rbap

    A/C not cooling

    I have a 2010 escape and my husband is recharging my a/c but I need to know what the pressures are supposed to be. Thanks in advance
  27. Hello, I just replaced the battery in my wife's "new" (to her) Escape. It started and ran fine for one day, now the anti-theft light keeps flashing and no crank. Today (after much YouTube t-shooting) I replaced the ignition module, same problem. Appreciate any inputs.
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