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2001 escape xlt . Rear Differential Fluid level question. Dana differential. I have gotten different answers about the rear differential fluid level. Which is correct ? I know the supposed amount of fluid required. My question is: Some say fluid level should be AT the lower plug, Some say it should be 1/2 to 3/4 inches Below the lower plug. Which is Correct ? Thanks
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2020 seat memory stopped working after changing battery, the mirrors move though. Does anyone know the fix for this?
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When the outside temperature is about 35 degrees Fahrenheit or colder, the power distribution panel shows power is going to all four wheels. Regardless of the speed or distance driven, the panel never shows just the front wheels receiving power. If the outside temperature is above 35 degrees, the panel shows only the front wheels being powered after a short distance I have taken the car to the dealer and they claim they cannot find anything wrong. They road tested the vehicle and said everything was OK. Outside temperature was about 44 degrees during the road test. The dealer has not been able to find any other occurence of this problem. Does anyone have a similar problem or know how I can contact someone in Ford emgomeeromg that might be able to solve this issue?
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Should I be sorry I purchased the 2022 Escape PHEV before I knew 2023 was coming?
4Greta replied to MarkEscaped's topic in Buying, Leasing & Ordering
I strongly prefer the 2022. The HVAC controls are not buried on the touchscreen. I like the aesthetics of the front end better than the 2023's. -
Would you buy an Escape Hybrid / PHEV again?
4Greta replied to GleasonFan's topic in Buying, Leasing & Ordering
I traded my 2019 Fusion PHEV for a 2022 Escape Titanium PHEV for the increased EV range and utility. I'm delighted with it. I am very glad that I have the Titanium because if has, among other things, heated seats and steering wheel AND Ford 360+ driver assist features. Note the "+". Its lane CENTERING is fantastic, along with INTELLIGENT cruise control - automatically adjusts vehicle speed to the changing speed limit. I also prefer the 2022 to the 2023, because the HVAC controls are physical, not buried in the touchscreen. -
2020 19" ford escape wheels, tires and TPMS sensors for sale (feeler)
2020hybrid replied to 2020hybrid's topic in Wheels & Tires
Judging from the market on these I would be willing to take $1200 for the set, I can deliver locally up to 50 miles from zip code 01376 or ship at buyers cost. Thanks for looking. I can email pics if interested. -
Hello, new member but long time Escape owner. I’ve had a ‘05 3.0L Escape and Mariner and currently an ‘07 Escape 3.0L. I’ve had it for 5 year now and all of the sudden ran into a high idle problem. At cold startup it would idle at about 2000 rpm’s and then drop to about 1500. After researching it sounded like the IAC valve was the culprit. When I unplugged it sure enough the rpm’s would drop to 750ish. I went ahead and replaced it on Monday. The rpm’s went down to about 1300 at startup and 900 at normal temperature. But it sounds like it should be about 750. Today I performed the idle relearn procedure but it didn’t change anything. It’s still about 900ish and about 750 when stopping in traffic with the brake pressed. Was the IAC not the real problem? Any suggestions on what else to look for? Thanks in advance!
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I have a front wheel drive escape plugin. I do not get power to all 4 wheels. The Ford service guy told me to run the warmup cycle during charging to get power to the 12-volt battery during the charging. This shuts the battery saver notification down and turns the interior light on when I open the door, but it is effective for only one day. The alternative, he said, was to buy a charger. Other forums offer a larger battery as a fix. Comments about that idea bring concern about voiding the warranty.
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2020 19" ford escape wheels, tires and TPMS sensors for sale (feeler)
2020hybrid posted a topic in Wheels & Tires
Looking to see if there is any interest from the forum in buying a set of 19" wheels and new tires w/TPMS sensors for sale. I purchased an aftermarket set of 20" rims and tires and looking to unload these. Tires are new less than 250 miles on them. Rims have 31k on them and are perfect condition. I live in Western MA. so I can do local pick up or buyer would pay for actual shipping charges. Let me know if you are interested, I will post pics later today. I'm not posting a price because I'm new to the escape vehicle and not sure on what the market is; feel free to make an offer and I will get back to you. Thank you, for looking and I look forward to participating in the forums. Just a little background I have been a service advisor, service manager and parts manager for ford so I may be able to help with general questions. -
Battery doesn't have the cold cranking amps to get started below freezing. Go to Auto Zone and have them check your battery with a meter. If it fails the test during cold weather, they may recommend getting a new battery.
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My Escape has been at the dealer for over two weeks, and they haven't figured out the problem.
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The vehicle has a lot of active modules even when the ignition is turned off. Subsequently when the battery volts drops to a certain point, some of the modules/features start to turn off to save the battery. This is according to the service tech at the Ford dealer. The cold weather really plays havoc with the battery's voltage level. I use a battery minder/charge when I know I am not going out that day. It's a BatteryMinder Model 128CEC1 Do you have a problem with the power distribution display showing power to all four wheels even though the pavement is dry but the temp is 35 F or below? I hope this is some help.
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My daughter was driving her escape and her dash lights, radio, headlights, went out and then car stalled. Got it towed and we were under the assumption it was the alternator. My husband had to charge the battery because the car had sat til we had it brought to our house and when we put it on the scanner we were getting an error saying Alternator Status: Warning Voltage 14.86v Charging voltage is above the acceptable limit. Extreme heat can increase overcharging and can cause many other problems with the battery. Inspect your charging system. so to be safe we changed out the alternator and are still getting the same errors with the scanner. We checked the grounds near the battery and they are all good. When we first purchased the vehicle we did have to buy a new pcm and get it programmed. Battery is also good. Only a couple months old and he did check the battery. No warning lights on dash. Truck runs good. We are just nervous about giving her the car back with this error still occurring. Any advice would be really appreciated!!
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2001 escape 3.0. Hard to start when outside temperature is below 30 degrees. Rarely it won't start and just drains the battery, Most times it will start after 2-3 tries in these low temperatures. outdoor temperatures above 30 degrees or so it always starts. Never stalls at any temperature. 64,000 miles , new plugs coils, air filter , injectors cleaned, fuel filter and Battery... 1500 miles/ 1.5 years ago. Just started doing this this winter. Last year with all the new parts it always started right away. Seems to me to be a firing or fuel issue. My best guess so far is that the fuel pump might not be holding pressure to the injectors ? Any ideas appreciated
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I have the same problems. In another forum someone is suggesting a battery with larger capacity as a fix. The same guy worries about voiding the warranty if he does it. I was told by my Ford service department to buy a battery charger. I guess that makes it my problem and not Ford's.
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I have the same kind of problem with the same model. I was told the 12-volt battery is low. I was advised to drive the car with the engine to charge the battery or to buy a battery charger. Seems the battery needs to have more capacity and ford has no fix.
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Can’t find manual transmission linkage bushings anywhere! Help!
Coffeejam posted a topic in Transmission & Clutch
Hi, We have a 2001 escape with a wobbly manual stick shifter. Need to replace the linkage bushings. Got the part numbers from Ford dealer, and then he said “oops they have been discontinued by Ford” So he suggested I try to find them aftermarket. Impossible. I can’t find them anywhere how is this possible??!! Any suggestions? Has anyone else had this issue? Note: here are the original Ford part #s for the bushings I’m looking for: YL8Z-7335-AB YL8Z-7335-AC thank you! -
What is the difference between the 1.6 and 2.0 ecoboost transmissions
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Hello, first time on a forum and first time Ford owner. I have a 2020 Escape Titanium Hybrid with about 47,000 miles. Bought it as a certified used car in 2022 and have about 650 miles left on bumper to bumper warranty. There are a lot of nice features on this vehicle, but I have had a ton of issues and electrical gremlins. Lots of recall notices and technical service bulletins. If it wasn’t for the great mpg, I’d probably have gotten rid of it by now. I’m concerned how this vehicle will hold up once my bumper to bumper warranty and power train coverage expire. Anyway, current issue I’m trying to get to the bottom of is lack of cabin heat. I did not notice this issue last winter. This winter the temperature gauge struggles to get past 1/4 inch and usually remains blue in color as opposed to turning white (proper engine operating temp). If I’m driving aggressively, uphill or highway speed, the temp gauge goes up and remains at the mid point. No overheating. However, when i return to city driving or sit parked with the heater on, the temp will continue to fall until it turns blue again and sometimes less than 1/4 inch. Sometimes the engine comes on and the display states “engine on for cabin heating”. My coolant levels are normal. If this was not a hybrid, I would think it was a thermostats. However, I think the engine is not running enough to create enough heat. Had this into the dealer and they said nothing wrong and no error codes - all normal. However, I did not notice this last year. Maybe it is normal and I’m over thinking it. There is enough cabin heat to be comfortable, but I have to keep the heater on high all the time unless I’m on the highway. The cabin heat fluctuates more with engine temp than the setting on the heater control. My guess is maybe a software issue or a sensor that should have the engine running longer or more often in the winter for cabin heat. I also wonder if the engine is running efficiently if it never really gets up to or stays in the normal (white) operating temp. I know this is a lot of info, so I appreciate any feedback folks can offer. Thanks
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My 2010 Ford Escape XLT, 2.5 FWD with an automatic transmission is leaking transmission fluid. It started after having the drivers side CV axle replaced. Since then I have replaced the seal but it is still leaking. I am ordering one more seal... since the first was a durlast brand. I am going to try an OEM seal. But during all of this I found a crack in the rubber hose that connects to the top of the transmission and the top of the dipstick assembly. Ford want's $75 for the whole assembly. I only need the rubber hose. Has anyone swapped out just the hose? I see no need for swapping the whole tube assembly. There's no oil on the hose, so I am pretty sure the leak isn't coming from there. But it's cracked and brittle so I figure I will go ahead and replace it. If you did just replace the hose... which hose did you use and what size?
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New Ford Escape owner. Wife and I recently bought a 2006 Ford Escape XLS 2.3ltr . The vehicle only has 39k original miles and has been well kept all of its life. Only problem that we have had with it is the heater will not get hot. It will warm up but it will not get HOT. Here is what I have done so far. 1. Coolant exchange and purged air from system. No Change 2. Removed blower fan and checked for debris 3. Removed cowl cover and confirmed no obstructions there 4. Removed lines going into the heater core, placed a fitting on the hose so that I could hook up a garden hose and then flushed the heater core. Water seemed to be traveling through the heater core efficiently and no leaking inside of the car. 5. I did have the seal around the HVAC case leaking and sucking in cold air. It appears that is pretty common on these. I used strips of foam to re-seal case and then taped it up. This seems to be keeping the cold air from coming in. Things I have noticed: 1. Cooling system does not seem to be getting up to full pressure. At full operating temperature you can remove the overflow cap with you hands and it will barely release any pressure . 2. Engine temp / gauge is functioning dead on . 3. I have noticed that one of the hoses in the engine bay that is coming from the heater core seems very hot and the other only luke warm 4. Cooling radiator hose is only warm to touch and you can squeeze it pretty easily. 5. I have the manual adjusting system and when selecting the HVAC to blow out of the vents, the right / center vent will not blow air. It is the vent directly beside the radio and for some reason it is not blowing air. I removed the trim bezzle and exposed the duct and still no air coming from this vent. Everything else seems to be working and functiong as should. ..Any ideas / suggestions ???? Thanks
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2018 Escape, 43K, 2.5L. This forum has talked about transmission service [fluid exchange vs fluid flush]. What does dealer ship do? Do they recognize a "fluid exchange" vs a fluid flush? If they don't, what explanation could be given the Service Manager to do a fluid exchange rather than a fluid flush? How is a fluid exchange done? what are the steps or procedures? If a dealer ship is unwilling to do a fluid exchange, is this some thing an independent shop can do? At 85 years old, this will be the last car I'll buy and I want to keep it running as long as I'm able to drive.
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New to Forum, heater not getting hot, please help.
Jackpot replied to Jackpot's topic in Forum Help & Suggestions
Anyone have any other Ideas? I feel like I have tried everything with the exception of taking the vehicle to the actual dealership and having the cooling system flushed. -
I have never had a dead battery, but I had an incident where it wouldn't start, and it gave me a bunch of strange alerts. I happened to be across the street from the dealer, so they sent a service tech over and it did it for him. It eventually started, and continued to start. They cleared a few codes. But since I have had electrical issues, the latest is the warning after turning it off to turn it off to save battery. I also got codes on Ford Pass that to save battery, they were turning off remote features. Sometimes the easy enter on the passenger side works. Sometimes the dome light comes on when the door is opened. The latest is the remote start won't work. It is in the shop now and they cleared some codes. The battery was a little low. The dome light still won't work. I am totally frustrated and thinking about contacting a lawyer re: lemon law. I traded in a 2014 CMax that I bought new and had no electrical problems.