I just replaced the sensor on my wife's 2006 Escape by following these instructions. Thank you! Some very important points to add:
1. I recommend disconnecting the hose and the electrical connector from the old sensor first, and then removing the two bolts. Then, BEFORE you try to pull out the old sensor, rotate it slightly clockwise and counterclockwise to get a good feel for what a properly installed sensor feels like. This will be important later, because ...
2. When installing the new sensor, it's IMPERATIVE that you properly seat its O-ring it in the fuel rail. This needs to be done BEFORE you torque down the bolts. Seat the O-ring by pressing down very firmly on the sensor and rotating it slightly clockwise and counterclockwise several times. When it feels like the old sensor did before you removed it, you probably have it right. Torque down the two bolts, then reinstall the hose and electrical connector.
3. GET A FIRE EXTINGUISHER and have it ready. Why? Because if you didn't properly seat the O-ring seal, it doesn't matter how tight you torqued those two bolts -- gasoline is going to start running all over the engine. (Guess how I found this out? No, I didn't set the Escape on fire, but there was a LOT of gas everywhere. If the engine had been hot, it could have been a disaster.)
4. Start the engine and IMMEDIATELY check for dripping fuel -- if there's any dripping fuel, IMMEDIATELY shut off the engine, remove the hose and electrical connector, remove the bolts and try to re-seat the O-ring. I had to do this numerous times until it would properly seat. Again: It doesn’t matter how tight you get those two bolts; tightening them doesn’t seat the O-ring.
5. There's certainly nothing wrong with depressurizing the fuel system by pulling the fuel pump fuse (It's the #5 fuse in the fuse block that's by the battery, NOT the fuse panel that's inside the car), but in my experience, it wasn't necessary. I removed the sensor from a fully pressurized system and didn't get any fuel spray.
