<?xml version="1.0"?>
<rss version="2.0"><channel><title><![CDATA[Brakes, Chassis & Suspension Latest Topics]]></title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=forums&id=18]]></link><description><![CDATA[Brakes, Chassis & Suspension Latest Topics]]></description><language>en</language><item><title>2012 Escape brakes</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=6719]]></link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	Hello, I had a question about my front pads on my 2012 Escape. I am a 37 year retired mechanic and believe in smarter not harder. I also replaced the rotors on the front. The pads were the original FOMOCO pads with 153k miles but were looking thin. I used my 18mm socket and removed the entire caliper bracket and caliper all at once. Removed old pads , replaced with new pads. Never had to rive that anti vibration spring steel piece at all, just replaced the pads. Then did the rotors and reassembled. Why do all the videos act like you have to remove the spring, then the caliper, then the caliper bracket, seems like a lot of extra steps. And extra tools needed. All I needed was the 18mm socket, pull handle,  and chanellocks to push piston back. Just wondering what others thought.  Thanks in advance. 
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">6719</guid><pubDate>Sun, 25 May 2025 19:01:32 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Cyclic Chirping/Metallic Brushing/Knocking Noises After New Shocks, Struts, Links, Brakes</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=6487]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>
	I have a 2013 Escape SEL 1.6.
</p>

<p>
	My mechanic installed new front struts and links, rear shocks, and front brakes. When I got it back it was making a cyclic chirping noise that would change pitch when applying the brakes. This noise would not be present when first driving, but start after 5-10 mins of driving. I drove around 45 miles from home and it started making a high pitched squealing/screeching when I made 90 degree turns in either direction. Twice is kicked off my traction control. I took it back to the mechanic suspecting wheel/hub bearing. They found the left front hub bearing was very loose and sloppy. It had not been when they worked on it the week before. They replaced left front hub beating and speed sensor. Drove it home last night and the cyclic chirping was still present after a few minutes of driving. Took it back today and we drove around so they could hear it. They thought possibly gravel dust in brakes. Asked me to drive it for a week and see if it worked itself out, got better or worse, etc. I took it through the car wash and the sound was gone while wet, but then came back once brakes were dry. There is also now a slight metallic brushing sound that I heard at slow speeds when pulling in my drive and braking. There is also a light clunking or knocking when braking that wasn't present before. 
</p>

<p>
	Any ideas what on earth is causing this? I'm about ready to just go trade this thing in on something new.
</p>

<p>
	Also of note, when they did shocks, struts, etc they also changed the serpentine belt and did spark plugs, insulators, and wires.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">6487</guid><pubDate>Tue, 11 Jul 2023 18:45:21 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Crunching Sound 2010 Escape 4cyl</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=6467]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>
	I have replaced everything except the inner tie rods. I have a crunching sound when I go over humps and even some speed bumps. It sounds like rusted metal flexing. Any ideas?
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">6467</guid><pubDate>Wed, 26 Apr 2023 22:26:19 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Brake lines catastrophic failure, replacement, codes</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=6428]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>
	16 year old new driver took my '08 to go see the grandparents, approaching a round-about began braking and nothing!  She was fortunately at a low speed and turned to the right to avoid a rear end and the gravel shoulder stopped the vehicle.  Found low brake fluid in the reservoir, steady drip above the front left tire, ABS and Brake warning lights on so towed it home, pulled the front tires and found driver's side brake line burst and the passenger side frayed and split.  Easy replacement, took less than 30 minutes to remove and replace the lines (13mm and 14mm wrench), refill the reservoir, bleed the brakes.  Problem is the ABS warning light is still on and the "Check Brake System"  warning is on the information screen.  Codes are C1478-AO and C1480-AO, Left (Right) Front Wheel Brake Pressure Control Plausibility Failure.  Any experience or thoughts as to how to clear the faults?<a class="ipsAttachLink ipsAttachLink_image" href="https://fordescapeforum.com/uploads/monthly_2022_12/2019236958_Fordbrakeline.jpg.eadfb3171c07b71055448f229f932514.jpg" data-fileid="325" rel=""><img class="ipsImage ipsImage_thumbnailed" data-fileid="325" src="https://fordescapeforum.com/uploads/monthly_2022_12/718894927_Fordbrakeline.thumb.jpg.9531ebce69b2dea820965a4ae94f3e47.jpg" alt="718894927_Fordbrakeline.thumb.jpg.9531ebce69b2dea820965a4ae94f3e47.jpg" /></a>
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">6428</guid><pubDate>Thu, 22 Dec 2022 00:08:28 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>ABS Module</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=6269]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>
	Hello, I have a 2010 Escape Limited. Recently after hitting the brakes hard, the pedal needs to be pretty much pushed to the floor for any braking. At first, the brakes would be back to normal after a restart or the next day. It's been 4 days since the last time and they still go to the floor. I've been working on cars about 45 years so I'm no stranger to auto mechanics. I know the ABS Modules have been an issue on these vehicles. My question is, has there been a recall for these and if I change the module with a known good one from the same year/8th digit Vin, does the PCM need to be programmed for the new module?
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">6269</guid><pubDate>Sun, 17 Oct 2021 18:29:23 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>CD4E removal</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=6321]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>
	In the process of removing the transmission in my 2007 Escape. Got a couple questions. Will be using an engine support bar. What is the best way to attach this to the engine ? Also will be using an 6 ton hydraulic jack. Any suggestions using one. Also the Escape is on jack stands any ideas about how high it should be for easy tranny removal. The jack is about 6 inches in height when lowered.  Any other advice on this rebuild ? Thanks.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">6321</guid><pubDate>Sun, 08 May 2022 16:00:55 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Loud horn type noise from rear brakes in the morning</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=6297]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>
	Hello all, 
</p>

<p>
	    Has anyone had an issue with their 2021 escape with a loud ship horn type noise from the rear brakes after sitting overnight and in the cold? This noise is extremely loud and goes away after the car is driven for a short distance. I am aware of a current recall on the rear brakes but that’s only if a brake booster fails and does not address any noise. The car has 3,400 miles on it and I’m planning on visiting the dealer but was wondering did anyone else is experiencing this issue and if so have you been to the dealer and what have they done to fix it. Any help greatly appreciated.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">6297</guid><pubDate>Mon, 07 Feb 2022 02:09:05 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>2020 Escape Front and Rear Strut-Tower Braces</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=6282]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>
	Seems like there are after-market front and rear strut-tower / shock-tower braces for most recent Ford vehicles, including older Escapes.
</p>

<p>
	I am searching for  front and rear strut-tower braces for a 2020 Escape.
</p>

<p>
	Anyone with information, please advise.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">6282</guid><pubDate>Tue, 28 Dec 2021 20:05:29 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>2018 Escape Titanium premature rear brake wear</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=6187]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>
	Anyone have brake issues?  My 2018 escape titanium has &lt;39,000km and the rear brakes are gone less then 1mm, fronts just need machining.... this really seems too quick was told it was because it was only used for short trips... which is bs we drove this vehicle more than we did our last one and I don’t think we replaced complete rear brakes until at least 80,000km.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">6187</guid><pubDate>Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:28:04 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Rear brakes not engaging</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=6274]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>
	Hello, I bought 2007 escape 120K miles. Both rear brake rotors are rusty. Brake pads are not worn. Seams weird that both rear calipers would fail. Any thoughts before I start spending money on calipers? Thanks in advance for any advice.  
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">6274</guid><pubDate>Sat, 13 Nov 2021 17:06:04 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>rear upper shock mount access</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=6242]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>
	My Chilton's manual shows fasteners holding the rear trim panel.  They don't exist on my car.  So, how do I get the panel off to get to the upper shock mount?
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">6242</guid><pubDate>Wed, 21 Jul 2021 16:34:06 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Random Brake Light and ABS Light -No ABS code</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=6226]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>
	Picked up a high mileage '04 Limited 4WD with the 3.0 for my son turning 16 soon.  We've done quite a bit to get it ready for the road, but now having a problem diagnosing the brake light and ABS light.  They come on randomly.  Sometimes when starting to drive, there will be no lights on, then after a few minutes of driving the brake light and ABS light will turn on and stay on until the car is turned off again.  Sometimes when it's started, it will have just the ABS light on, sometimes just the brake light, and sometimes both, and sometimes no lights.  I have a scanner with ABS, and it shows no codes set for ABS.  Fluid is full, and there are no leaks.  Brakes seem to work fine, but I have not tested it hard while the lights are on.   Where to start?  Replace the brake level sensor maybe?  
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">6226</guid><pubDate>Wed, 26 May 2021 14:50:44 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Brake Booster Vacuum Line</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=6158]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>
	Hey all, while replacing the pigtails on the ignition coils on my 2006 Escape (2.3L/FWD/MT) I pushed the vacuum line (from the brake booster to the throttle body) out of the way and inadvertently broke the brittle brittle connector. I can't seem to find the right size connector and I'm not sure if it's an Escape-specific part, as the old connector is now crumbled in pieces. Has anyone replaced this and if so, what is the connector size? Thanks in advance!!
</p>

<p>
	 
</p>

<p>
	<a class="ipsAttachLink ipsAttachLink_image" href="https://fordescapeforum.com/uploads/monthly_2021_01/image.png.f563e6b57646db1e74a3f9232f0c998a.png" data-fileid="195" rel=""><img class="ipsImage ipsImage_thumbnailed" data-fileid="195" src="https://fordescapeforum.com/uploads/monthly_2021_01/image.thumb.png.079ad600ece4151a6cd88d940f1aa633.png" alt="image.thumb.png.079ad600ece4151a6cd88d940f1aa633.png" /></a>
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">6158</guid><pubDate>Tue, 26 Jan 2021 21:34:40 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Brake slow to release</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=6094]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>
	<span style="font-size:14px;"><span style="font-family:'Times New Roman', Times, serif;"><strong>I have a 2010 Ford Escape that has a left front brake that is slow to release. The amount of time it takes to release increases as the brake gets hot. I have replaced the caliper, which included new slide pins. But the problem is still there. The rubber brake hoses appear to be in good shape. I did a thorough bleed when I replaced the caliper, so the fluid at the caliper should be good as well. Any ideas on what to check next. The caliper and /or slide pins have always been the problem in the past on my other vehicles, so I am at a loss right now. Thanks for any advise you can give.</strong></span></span>
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">6094</guid><pubDate>Sun, 13 Sep 2020 17:14:31 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>suggestions for lowering aprings for</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=6084]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>
	a 2016 escape titanium fwd 2.0 ecoboost motor. i want to get it down about 2" all around. thanks
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">6084</guid><pubDate>Sat, 29 Aug 2020 04:26:38 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Recall Anti-Locke Brake Module Reprogram # 20E03</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=6073]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>
	I’ve taken the initiative to get my Escape in as soon as I noticed the reprogramming recall with the  Ford app on my phone.  On Monday 9am 07/27/2020  They thought it would be less than an hour wait. I was happy to sit and wait. My service contact let me know they were having computer issues about 40 min in.  She came in another 20 to let me know they couldn’t get it started and they had called Ford Hot Line. She set me up in a loaner and told me it could be a couple to few days. Will follow up with this post when I get my baby home.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">6073</guid><pubDate>Wed, 29 Jul 2020 13:45:57 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>2006 2WD ABS light won't go off</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=6074]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>
	Hey all, I have a 2006 2WD Escape w manual trans. When I got it about a month ago it had an ABS light on. I replaced the sensor, then realized it had a bad tone ring on the driver's side, which I assumed would fix the issue. It didn't. As soon as I started driving after the tone ring replacement the light came back on. I checked the fuses and everything seems fine. It is still throwing the C1233 code. I've heard that some codes take a certain number of fault-free drive cycles before the code will clear itself from the system. It runs and brakes fine, it's just annoying and won't pass inspection, which is due at the end of this month, Any help is appreciated!
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">6074</guid><pubDate>Wed, 05 Aug 2020 04:23:11 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>How many miles on brakes on old Escape hybrid?</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=6055]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>
	I just bought a 2020 Escape Hybrid, and I'm curious about how long the brakes (pads) lasted for those who owned the old hybrid Escape (the one that got discontinued after 2012).
</p>

<p>
	I have a 2007 Prius that is still on its first set of brakes (pads in front, drums in back) at 65K miles.  Can I expect that kind of mileage on a Ford hybrid?
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">6055</guid><pubDate>Mon, 22 Jun 2020 23:02:01 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Knocking when accelerating, stops when brake pedal is touched</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=6052]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>
	I have a 2015 Escape SE.  In February this year it started making a growling noise and my mechanic changed 2 press type bearings on the rear wheels. Immediately afterwards it started making an intermittent knocking sound when accelerating. As soon as I touched the brake pedal (not even applying pressure) the knocking stopped. I took it back to the mechanic and he drove it and couldn't hear it because it's intermittent and comes and goes at different times. He checked the car over and declared he could find nothing wrong. The knocking persists intermittently. Some days it happens, some days it does not. Can be at low speeds or high speeds. Only happens when driving straight, not when turning. I can make it stop by just touching the brake pedal, not even applying pressure. It can go a few days without knocking, or it can happen every day.
</p>

<p>
	Six weeks ago I had the winter tires taken off and summer ones put on by my mechanic, and the steering started pulling to the left and right, so I took it to a Ford dealer to get a wheel alignment ( I didn't mention the knocking sound). They did the alignment and rotated the wheels and miraculously the knocking stopped. Last week I returned to my mechanic to get new shocks on the rear and he also did a new press type bearing on one front (waiting for the other front to be done this week), and the knocking immediately started again. 
</p>

<p>
	By my deductions, my mechanic did something to cause the knocking when he replaced the rear bearings in February. It was alleviated when the wheels were rotated six weeks ago, and it came back when my mechanic put on new shocks and a new bearing on the front last week. My mechanic is a great guy and has worked on my cars for 14 years, always ready to help and be of service. He can't figure it out and I am at my wits end. It's a loud knock, and seems to correlate to the wheels turning because as I speed up the knock gets faster and as I slow down the knock gets slower. Touching the brakes without applying pressure immediately stops the knock. Doesn't happen every time I drive it. Can be at any speed.
</p>

<p>
	Is there anybody here who can offer any advice? I want it to stop, and it could be dangerous.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">6052</guid><pubDate>Sun, 21 Jun 2020 19:44:58 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Front end grinding noise when turning</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=5270]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>So I've reviewed most of the posting and answered a few.  I didn't see this particular issue so I am hoping that someone out there in the world of bits and bytes has at least something that I can check out.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>To begin with, I have a 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid with 148,000 miles on it.  It runs great, no problems there.  A few weeks back, I replace both the front and rear axle bearings and the all of the ball joints both front and rear.  I have also just in the past two weeks replace the front struts.  Then last week, I took it to get new tires put on and a few days after that, I started getting this grinding/rubbing type noise when I turned to the left.  It didn't seem to be too bad.  However, this week, it has gone haywire.  It grinds/rubs at any effort to turning left.  I did notice that it seems to do it more on acceleration that it does if I just let the car coast.  There is no noise going straight down the road.  I can run at 80 MPH down the interstate with no problems.  </p>
<p> </p>
<p>I'm going to take it back to the tire installation site and let them look at it.  I have checked all the linkages under the front and everything seems to be nice and snug.  I did a double check with the torque wrench and everything is still at spec for torque.  I have also checked the dust pan that is on the front brakes thinking it might have gotten bent or something.  That is fine.  I've jumped up and down to make sure that the struts are okay.  I'm starting to pull out what hair I have left.  </p>
<p> </p>
<p>Any thoughts?</p>
<p> </p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">5270</guid><pubDate>Mon, 06 Aug 2018 22:46:35 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>2008 ford escape rattling front-end</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=4363]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>Hey guys. New poster, new member. Hope to get some value out of these forums. </p>
<p> </p>
<p>So I have a 2008 ford escape XLT (3.0). FWD. I recently replaced both control arms, tie rods, sway bar bushings and sway bar links, and I continue to get extremely excessive vibrations at high-speed, and rattling/clunking from the front end. I had originally thought maybe the tires were wore on the front from the bad suspension, but when I took them off to examine them, they still look brand new. The tire place said that the condition they were in wouldn't cause the vibrations and noise I am feeling and hearing. </p>
<p> </p>
<p>The shaking is only noticeable on the highway, at around 70 or higher. The steering wheel shakes quite a bit, and the faster you go the faster and louder a 'thunking' noise gets, coming from the steering area. </p>
<p> </p>
<p>The clunking noise I can hear when I am driving, and go over potholes, bumps, etc. There is also an occassional 'popping' noise coming from the front-end when I turn corners, although it's not frequent or really loud. It does it in about the middle of steering wheel travel. It almost sounds like the cv axle is popping or something. </p>
<p> </p>
<p>I haven't replaced the wheel bearings yet, but when I had the car apart to do the control arms, tie rods and other front-end parts, I did grab the rotors and attempt to shake them to see if there was any play in the bearings, to which I found none. I am not sure what other ways to test the bearings. </p>
<p> </p>
<p>I drive 90 miles a day to and from work, and also have small children that ride in this vehicle too, so getting it fixed is a concern for me, but do not have tons of money to throw at it to 'see if this fixes it', or to take it to an overpriced mechanic for them to 'guess' what's wrong with it. </p>
<p> </p>
<p>Are there some places I can start looking to see if I can pinpoint the problem myself?</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Thank you!</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">4363</guid><pubDate>Wed, 12 Jul 2017 13:03:05 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Intermittent Road Vibration</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=5978]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>
	I am new to Forum so if this thread already exists, please send me there.  I have a 2012 Limited AWD 3.0 L.  My problem is an intermittent road vibration.  Most of the time, car is smooth as silk, but recently, sometimes I get a pretty good (severe) road vibration.  Usually from 20 mph on up, but often it will smooth out at higher speeds.  I don’t think it has anything to do with tires or wheels.  I can’t seem to pin-point to any part of the car. 
</p>

<p>
	After doing some research, I put the car up on stands and carefully checked out the driveshaft.  The two u-joints seems tight, I couldn’t find and play when they were free to rock.  The center support bearing seems OK.  The rubber part looks good.  If I really push on it, I can get it to deflect up to 3/8 in. or so, but it is not loose.  All CV joints seem good and tight, no boots compromised.  Tie rod ends are tight also. 
</p>

<p>
	What really is confusing to me is the intermittent nature of the problem.  After the car sits a while after stopping,  it seems to go away, but I don’t have a clue of what brings it on. 
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">5978</guid><pubDate>Sat, 07 Mar 2020 18:30:36 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>!!URGENT!!! 2016 Brake Reservoir screw</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=5958]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>
	Hi All, my daughter has a 2016 Ford Escape (2.5L) and she needs the bake reservoir screws Everything was fine but when she went to get her oil changed they pointed out the problem. obviously she can't drive the car with the fluid reservoir just hanging loose so i need to get some replacement screws and bring them to her. Does anyone know what size/type of screws this takes, and how many? Can't find anything on the Ford website.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">5958</guid><pubDate>Fri, 14 Feb 2020 20:07:02 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>This Forum</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=3451]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>IS ANYONE ON THIS FORUM?????????????????????????????????????????</p>
<p> </p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3451</guid><pubDate>Sun, 29 May 2016 02:18:31 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Rear Rotor Rust 2016 Escape</title><link><![CDATA[https://fordescapeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=5906]]></link><description><![CDATA[
<p>
	I have a 2016. Replaced the rear rotors and pads about 4k miles ago and their starting to rust already. They are Brembo pads and rotors so they are not cheap. Could this be a brake bias issue front to back? Or are the factory calipers just a piece of crap. I also have a 2013 Fusion that does the same thing!!   
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">5906</guid><pubDate>Tue, 14 Jan 2020 22:49:17 +0000</pubDate></item></channel></rss>
