mrtechnologist2u

Update: ok the things I did to start my Escape were intermitant. I tried again pushing the Key in when I turned the key from RUN to START. This now works every time. It does indeed seem like the Ignition Lock Interface is the problem! Ford cars like the Fusion, Focus and sport-utility vehicles like the Ford Escape, Explorer and Mazda Tribute built in the 2000 decade may experience starting problems. The symptoms of Ford ignition lock problems include a stuck lock that won’t move or turning the key and nothing happens. This can cause drivers to go on a wild goose chase. Sometimes car owners and do-it-yourself mechanics start with replacing the car battery, starter and alternator for the wrong reasons. The cars I worked on had issues with the plastic linkage that connects the ignition key to the ignition switch on the other side of the column.

Ford cars like the Fusion, Focus and sport-utility vehicles like the Ford Escape, Explorer and Mazda Tribute built in the 2000 decade may experience starting problems. The symptoms of Ford ignition lock problems include a stuck lock that won’t move or turning the key and nothing happens. This can cause drivers to go on a wild goose chase. Sometimes car owners and do-it-yourself mechanics start with replacing the car battery, starter and alternator for the wrong reasons. The cars I worked on had issues with the plastic linkage that connects the ignition key to the ignition switch on the other side of the column.

Ford cars like the Fusion, Focus and sport-utility vehicles like the Ford Escape, Explorer and Mazda Tribute built in the 2000 decade may experience starting problems. The symptoms of Ford ignition lock problems include a stuck lock that won’t move or turning the key and nothing happens. This can cause drivers to go on a wild goose chase. Sometimes car owners and do-it-yourself mechanics start with replacing the car battery, starter and alternator for the wrong reasons. The cars I worked on had issues with the plastic linkage that connects the ignition key to the ignition switch on the other side of the column.

search you tube for no crank no start! Common problem. Turn key to run then push Firmly in and turn to start. The plastic Ignition Lock Module wears out. I dont know if Ford doesnt want to admit it has a problem. My dealer says Lots of spares in stock!

Am I right in saying it is a no crank no start? Check out on You Tube. It could be the "ignition column lock module" It is a common failure point on Fords of that time frame. It is a mechanical, plastic piece that connects your ignition lock with the starter switch. It slowly wears out. It will not trigger any codes.

Try testing cigar lighter with a load (low resistance) plugged in. You could have a bad ground connection, Or a bad +12 volt connection. Loose wire, corroded connection or broken broken wire just touching each other. If this case you have enough of a connection to read battery voltage but once you plug something into the socket you drop all the voltage across the bad connection and it heats up, increases resistance and becomes the load. When it gets bad enough the connection will fail and you will have 0 volts at the cigar lighter. Just think of it as a corroded batter connection. It will read the correct voltage but it wont start the car like that! Hope this helps

Seems like a common problem. can try 30 times turning the key and no crank. I have tried in PARK and in NEUTRAL, pushing key in, moving key up & down. now real improvement. BUT!! If I roll the car forward even an inch or two it will start right away! If I use the remote start it starts right away. Is this something other than the column/starter switch issue, I should look at? I would rather not take the column apart if I don't have to. 3.0 L, 4WD, Automatic.