Knottynuts

Keep in mind that the reservoir cap is effectively the "radiator cap" and must be functioning and in place. If not, the system will not build pressure and it is the pressure that raises the boiling point of the coolant; without the coolant can boil over sooner and that can lead to overheating also. Anyway, hope all is cool now (pun intended)

So possibly an intermittently sticking thermostat? Nice if that's all it was. I might suggest a new rad cap also since you mentioned it wasn't pulling coolant from the reservoir during cooldown.

OK, lot of pieces of info here so I'll throw individual observations back. 1. If air is in the cooling system the fans, thermostat, interior heater and temperature gauge will all not work properly. 2. A gas test in the cooling system (like with a test strip) won't be accurate if the system has overheated and has had new coolant installed. ONLY a pressurized cylinder leak down test will give you a guaranteed answer as to if the cylinder head gasket, block or head is leaking. Every one of your symptoms can be the result of pressurized combustion gas entering the cooling system; it only has to be a small amount but it's enough to cause an overheating condition which can quickly compound. Again, only a pressurized cylinder leak down test will give you a guaranteed answer (not a pressurized cooling system test).

There's no rule especially if they've been replaced before. 8mm is the most common followed by 10mm but sometimes they're 3/8". Throw a socket over the bleeder and when you find the right size break it loose first and then use a wrench during the bleeding process.

Are you talking about the purge solenoid on the engine for the EVAP system? Depending on the year either it is typically less than a $100 and I'd recommend a FORD unit only as the aftermarket units have a very high failure rate. There really isn't any other reliable way to fix the problem.

Fortunately, head gasket leaks are not as common to leak externally. If you can determine where the drop is hitting the pavement (maybe put a large piece of carboard under the area) you can zero in more if it's coming from an area closer to the radiator, the engine or the firewall area (rear of the engine compartment). Are you sure it's coolant? Is your coolant level actually going down over time? Radiator, coolant hoses and plastic coolant outlets on the engine are all possibilities. Could be worth it to just pay for a pressurized cooling system test and know for sure.

Hi. Beautiful color. I almost got one that color too but went for the red. The factory traction control system will apply a pulsed braking force to one of the slipping front wheels (FWD models) once enough wheel slip is detected. Are you sure it doesn't have the traction control system as it is a pretty standard option for that year? I had a FWD model for several years and then opted to get the AWD version (same interior/exterior color and everything). Honestly, if traction is that much of a concern in your area I would just recommend a trade to a AWD. Being a FWD you can't really do anything with the final drive as it's within the transaxle assembly.

Dorman is literally the lowest common denominator in the aftermarket parts industry but unfortunately they are taking over many other quality manufactures without improving anything in their own line. With the failure rate I see in the industry with Dorman parts I'd rather just drive my car off a cliff then put a Dorman part in it. For something as important as a steering component, stick to the dealer only, although I understand the availability issue at the moment. Additionally, if it is not done through a dealership it will never be registered as having been done (such as with other future owners or in case of an accident). However, in the TSB, you must specifically scan the PSCM first; if codes B1342, B2277 or B2278 are not present, then only a reprogram is required. If B2278 is present then the torque sensor is replaced. If B1342 or B2277 are present then the entire steering column must be replaced.

Possibly as I think 15" and 16" were both factory options BUT... it depends on the tires you using. The 2009/10 for example came with 16" rims with 235/70/16 tires or 17" rims with 225/65/17 tire. With that situation both options with keep your speedometer showing the right speed, and ABS and traction control will operated properly because the over all wheel (tire and rim) diameter is the same.

The steering wheel isn't enough; you need to have a compatible clock spring (in the steering column), wiring and radio for the radio to be controlled via the steering wheel. However, regarding the phone, the Bluetooth system has to be paired with a compatible phone first and then that phone has to have it's Bluetooth on and be within range for the phone button to work.

Most commonly the torque converter is failing. If you have a scanner you can monitor TCC application, RPM or input speed (Impeller) and output speed (Turbine not Vehicle Speed) and look for "slip" or the difference between the input and output speeds and see if that matches what you are feeling.

The fasteners they show should be clips that attach to the backside of the panel and snap into the body. There may be about 6-8 of them but you can't see them until the panel is out. Remove anything that is screwed to the panel and anything overlapping the panel and then you literally just pull the panel out.

Do you have AC? If you do (and it works) you can turn the AC on it will force the electric fans to come on. Fuse 25 and 26 (both 40A) are the load fuses , there are three relays in the Battery Junction Box that control them (for different speeds) and fuse 9, [inside under dash] (3A) is the fuse for the control side of the relays. The temperature sensor (two wire) is on the right front of the cylinder head.

Yes, it definitely wouldn't be a converter; I hate it when people suggest this without looking at all the symptoms as plugged converters will usually have little effect on low end power/rpm and will gradually get worse as rpm/load increases. If engine related, possible causes are MAF or MAP sensors, failing coils/plugs (typically cause a misfire when loaded) or injectors, but may be a mechanical problem that has affected valve timing (may show on a compression/leak down test). However, have you been able to scan the transmission module as it sounds a lot like the transmission is stuck in a high gear such as being in a limp in mode and starting in third gear (like trying to ride a bicycle from a stop in a high gear)?

The upstream sensor is screwed into the catalytic converter where the exhaust enters it (almost right at the engine) and the downstream O2 is screwed in the the exhaust pipe right after the converter. The exhaust pipe runs down the middle of the vehicle so neither one is on a particular side of the vehicle, one is just more to the front of the car and the other is more towards the rear. The connectors are different though; the upstream is a six wire connector and the downstream is a four wire connector.