Grayfox

My 2011 Escape XLT has a tach problem. Its reading wrong. At idle is reads about 6500 rpm and when driving will almost peg out. Otherwise the car seems to be running fine and RPMs sound normal. Anybody run into this before? What's the fix?

I recently bought a 2011 Escape XLT. I've noticed on the display I sometimes get a message saying something like "Maximum Speed 80 MPH". On a recent trip I discovered that the car is indeed limited to 80 MPH. While I don't normally drive that fast, I do need the speed occasionally for passing and such. On the Interstate with a speed limit of 70 MPH, I often set the Cruise Control to 75. Doing this displays a constant message of "Vehicle near Maximum Speed" which blocks out any other displays or messages. Frankly, its a PITA. How do I go about changing the settings?

Bear with me, my first Escape. Bought a used 2011 Escape XLT recently. There's a plate on the back that says "Race Star Equipped". Exactly what does that mean and what does it include?

More info: I was able to get a schematic of the lighting system. Looking at the back of the switch when mounted. Left to right Terminal 1 Violet/ white stripe goes to the brake lights. Terminals 2 &3 run the shift lock and whatever else. Terminal 4 Yellow with red stripe is power and goes directly to fuse #2. This wire is hot. I can run a jumper from terminal 1 to terminal 4 and the brake lights do come on. I've tested all 3 new switches with a multi meter. On all 3 switches terminals 2 &3 are open in the pushed position and make contact in the released position. just as they should However, terminals 1 &4 do NOT make contact in either position It keeps coming up as a bad switch. But 3 different brand new switches form 3 separate vendors all being bad? Am I missing something here?

I recently bought a 2011 Escape XLT. I discovered the brake lights don't work. Let me preface this by saying I'm a retired truck and equipment mechanic. While I never worked on cars much, I can generally fix whatever comes up. The principals are all the same. So I got to checking into the problem. I have power to the switch. I can run a jumper on the connector and the brakes lights do come on. Simple right, bad switch. But a new switch didn't fix it. In fact I've tried three new switches, the last one being a Ford factory switch. None of them work. I tested all 3 with a multi-meter and none are showing a connection. 🤬 Has anybody ever heard of this before or have any idea what the Hell is going on? What am I missing?

Just trying it out. 😉