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Found 5 results

  1. Hello everyone I'm having a nightmare with my 2002 Ford Maverick/Escape manual,transmission,petrol XLT (mazda tribute) I'll be driveing down the road and the car will feel like it's an automatic and try to down shift then the theft light comes on and the check engine light and it stalls,some times it comes back sometimes I'll have to roll a 50 feet before it turns over,I've changed everything I can thing off prior this happening,ICV,EGR Pump and valve,leads,plugs I thought it might be the fuel pump so I rebuilt it with a different motor,when it stalls and I turn it over I can hear the fuel pump start I didn't drop the tank though and clean it but it's happening with a full tank now,I've checked and cleaned all the grounds,I I've done a dash board gauge test and when I start the motor I can see the battery climb to 14.3 so it's not the alternator and the battery is good,don't know what to make of it can anyone offer some advice? Cheers
  2. I just bought a 2008 escape. It has ran great for the week so far. Tonight, my wife and I were sitting in it for a moment with the ignition to ACC before we went to the store. As we were sitting there, I thought I heard ticking. We turned the air off (radio already off) and you can hear a faint sound coming from what seems to be right under the clock on the inside. With everything off, it didn't sound like ticking after all, but like something with a gear that keeps spasming out, going back and forth with no specific pattern. You can barely hear it from under the hood and it won't stop unless you turn the key to off. As soon as you turn it back on it goes right back at it and it continues when turning the engine on. My first thought was maybe an air vent door or something? I turned the air back on and switched between each setting with each working fine. You can hear the actuator and everything moving with no problem. My second thought was how it sounds almost like a CD drive spinning back and forth trying to frantically read something. Its a 6 disc CD changer, but I had no discs in it. I hadn't even tried the CD player yet, so I grabbed 6 CD's to make sure it all worked, which it does. The sound still persisted while testing it, unchanged. I tried the ol' bang on it trick, but of course that did nothing. Its a faint sound that completely drowns out with drive noise and air/music, but I know it wasn't doing that when I bought it and it can be quite strange to listen to as you sit in 'silence'. What would this be? What is underneath the dash right there that would be spasming like that? Could the dealer have made this stop for a while through the puter? I've scoured the net, but can't find anyone with a sound like this. I could probably upload a clip of it if needed. Any help is greatly appreciated!!! And I'll follow up with any further information.
  3. Hello members! I'm looking to add a LOC to my radio. so I can add a amp. My problem is I have no diagram to reference. google has been no help after searching for hours. Can only find ones for 2013 and lower. when I pull the radio none of these wires are matching up to 2013 or any other diagram I can find. I need to locate: 12v constant Ground ( I will find a ground my self) Rear right +/- Rear left +/- Thanks for any help you might have! 😀
  4. About 4 or 5 Months ago my wifes 2014 Escape Died in stop and Go traffic on the Freeway and when I got there everything checked out and it ran fine until now. It wont start unless jumped. I figured it may be a bad battery or a bad alternator. I jumped it and took it to work and put my meter on it while running. I could not reach the negative cable on battery so I put my ground wire on the Block on the left side of engine right next to the what I believe was the Tensioner, and put my lead on the positive post and it was reading 9 volts, so I figured yep the alternator is bad. I wasnt gunna order anything yet and had a hunch to look deeper. After work I went out and jumped it again and keep in mind I use the same locations that I put my meter on to jump as well. I was using a snap on jump box that will read my voltage at the same time. When I started it, to my amazment it read 14 volts so I let it run for a bit then shut it off and it fired just fine. I removed the jump box and put my meter back in the same location and its back to 9 volts, then I was able to put my ground on a different location on a bolt on the right side of the motor closer to the battery and bam 14 volts, then I put my ground on the negative terminal of the battery and bam 14 volts. When i shut the car off for the night it read 12.7 volts and I was going to let it sit over night and was gunna check it the next day. When I got there I measured 12.7 volts so its not a draw, but again did not fire, but then the solenoid clicked rapidly and then started to turn over fine and fired, then turned very slow but fired. That brings me to today, this sounds like a bad ground possibly on the starter or engine block but we all know how electrical problems are, anyone have any advice? Where is the block ground, anyone had similar issues? These motors look like fine to work on.
  5. Hello all, I am looking to see how could I modify my tail lights to add a separate turn signal on the tail light of my 2nd gen Escape. The reason why I want to add one is that I'm planning to swap my halogen bulbs to LED and (in my opinion) adding a separate turn signal on the top reflector would be better looking than the "tail as turn" setup in the Escape. Any information would help, thanks! P.S. This is my first post here, so I apologize if I accidentally did anything wrong here! If you are not sure what I'm talking about, check the image below.
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