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It's basically the fuse panel in the left side of the front passenger floor area. To access the entire unit you would have to take apart some of the center console area. 

Okay, but how do I access this SJB? Pepse.

Almost definitely. The only thing you could do more is check for the signal right at the SJB from the jam switches input C2280C pin 2,3,14,15,or 16) and check the output to the dome light output (C2280A pin 9) while verifying your connectors/connection is ok. If the inputs/output are ok then there is a wiring problem, possibly to the dome light (and cargo lamp).  

I never was a fan of the chrome grill and I found this overlay.  It seems to be high quality and for me improves the look. I also added a pinstripe.  It gives the illusion of being longer and lower.  I first tried a black stripe but it didn't have the contrast I wanted so I went with a silver and charcoal and it works pretty well.   Trim Illusions    

I had my first one (bought with only 40K miles) written off when someone rear ended me on a highway. I had a very specific criteria, tan interior, redfire pearl paint, 3.0L, AWD and was able to find another one off craigslist but it took about four months. There are still lots out there and I picked up one recently with only 80K miles. Only other suggestion is get a 2009 to 2012 as there was a big jump in power and gas mileage improvement from 2008 to 2009 but little difference after. They also had several new features added in 2010 but minimal after. One other comment is their factory NAV systems seem to be quite reliable but I didn't have success getting one so I may get a "brick" system (factory Nav/radio with factory amp and all wiring to retain your SYNC and voice control) but they are about $1,400 US.😪 Bottom line, be patient, check the listings often. If you find another that's been babied you could easily go another 10 years... I intend to. 😎

Thanks @Knottynuts You seem knowledgeable about what I consider to be the best consumer-vehicle platform yet produced. Here's my situation.  I've driven my 2008 Ford Escape (3.0L XLT 4WD) for 289,000 miles.  Over the years, I added a Curtis Tow hitch with the wiring harness whose picture you attached, along with several other enhancements to the Escape.  If I tow, it's usually a 17-foot Bass Tracker.  For the last 10+ years, I was under the assumption that when my Escape died, I'd be able to find something better. Recently, for whatever reason (my Escape is still operational), I've started looking for a replacement vehicle.  I test drove about 18 different vehicles.  All the other small SUVs today are over-engineered pansies compared to my 2008 Escape for lots of different reasons IMO. (The closest I got to a non-Escape replacement was the Bronco Sport, but it won't work for me.)  Now I'm looking for a lower-mileage 2nd-generation Escape.  I hope to basically erase 80,000 - 100,000 miles from my beloved Escape, in essence.  By this strategy, I believe I'm only putting off the day I'll have to settle for a lesser vehicle.  So far, my replacement Escape hasn't materialized.  I hope to get something under 100k miles with the tan interior, which makes things bright and airy inside, IMO.  If I wait too long to find this replacement, my 2nd-generation choices will all be high mileage at that point. I also want to avoid getting anything from the "Salt Belt" because I know the Escape's rear wheel-wells have a tendency to rust when exposed to lots of road salt and because the rear shocks rest on sheet metal.  So far, my Escape's rear wells are completely rust-free.  I live in an arid, non-snowy part of California away from the salty sea air. Is there any trick to finding my replacement Escape (3.0L V6 4WD XLT) besides looking in the usual places?  At this point, I don't mind paying a premium for basically getting 7-9 more years of the best truck-based small SUV that will ever be produced, IMO.  I don't mind keeping my current Escape going with lots of repairs, but by the time the old XLT is put out to pasture, the used market will probably be almost all super high mileage. Thanks for any advice you might give to me!

Yes they'll they're all rated for 3,500 lbs (straight from the owners manual) under normal/casual towing. If you doing long hauls, mountain passes or such then throw in a cooler. Additionally, many of the ones I've seen are prewired for a four wire trailer connector (optional, but not installed, trailer package). If yours doesn't have a factory hitch with connector installed then it may still be prewired to the rear bumper area. Just look for a square four wire connector not hooked up to anything and then you can just buy the OEM FORD trailer connector.   Drag files here to attach, or choose files...
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This is good news.   Thank you.  Is it true that all 2nd-generation (2008-2012), V6, 3.0L, 4WD Escapes can tow up to 3,500 lbs as long as I add the wiring harness and the tow hitch, and that the auxiliary cooler is unnecessary for 3,500-lbs towing in this configuration?   (I've narrowed down my search to 2nd-Gen, V6, 3.0L, 4WD XLTs or Limited's....) Thanks so much !  This is very helpful !

If it has the factory hidden hitch in the rear bumper it's already setup for it and all Escapes for that year (3.0L) can tow up to 3,500 lbs. If it had an auxiliary cooler it would be in front of the radiator. 

A guy wants to sell me his 2012 XLT 3.0L 4WD Ford Escape, Limited Edition.  It has a tow hitch.  He says that this Escape also comes with the tow package that enables me to tow up to 3,000 lbs. If you have a moment, please see the attached photo and let me know if it has the required auxiliary transmission oil cooler. Thank you!