I replaced the plugs and coil packs on my 2001 v6 and was wondering what the labor time is for this job in a shop. I have looked online and have not found the actual shop time. Those of you that have done this job know that it requires removing the upper intake manifold to access the 4, 5 and 6. spark plugs. It can be done, but lots of parts to remove. Hope to keep this thing going for another 260,000 miles!
Hi Capt Tom,
Well, as I understand it, there is no TPMS sensor in the "emergency" spare wheel, so yes, the warning light will illuminate.
Mine is lit too...thanks to a tire replacement "mechanic" who destroyed the sensor.....(And the local Ford Dealer has no clue as to how to replace it or re-program the sensor....as is required, I gather, from YouTube videos on the subject.)
Anyway, I assume you have now refitted the original wheel & the light has self-extinguished????
Mmmm Sorry for the delay in replying but at that time my problem was related to the compressor clutch kicking in for no apparent reason.
Now, today...I have the same problem as you had.... Both AC Condenser Fan and the Engine cooling fan both run at full speed when the car is started.
Even when the engine is cold and with the AC Off. (The intermittent engaging of the AC Compressor clutch is still happening.)
I am reluctant to take it to a dealer. (I have been ripped off recently by the company who changed my tires, they damaged a tire pressure sensor, although they denied it initially, they have since admitted they must have but say the local Ford Dealer does not know how to rectify it!)
Anyway... did you locate the cause of the incorrect fan operation? Be grateful if you could advise!
(As regards the blower (cabin) motor & its "speed" resistor: It should have NO effect on the engine fan(s) operation.
I replaced a blower motor in a Kia recently, after first suspecting the resistor...but the resistor had continuity over its terminals, so it had to be the motor...brushes worn out, as evidenced by the amount of carbon/copper dust that came out of it!)
I am replacing a Hatch on my 2010 Escape XLT with one from a 2008 Escape Limited.
The hatch handle is in a different location, does that change any of the wiring in any way?
I am in the middle of swapping harnesses and am seeing an obvious difference with regards the lower handle on the 2010.
Will I need to reroute any wires to make this change work or are there any wires that become obsolete?
Any information would be appreciated. If there are any diagrams that are available, I would appreciate them too.
I also have wiring pieces from the 2008 that may be used in this process if necessary.