I was able to get a schematic of the lighting system.
Looking at the back of the switch when mounted. Left to right
Terminal 1 Violet/ white stripe goes to the brake lights.
Terminals 2 &3 run the shift lock and whatever else.
Terminal 4 Yellow with red stripe is power and goes directly to fuse #2. This wire is hot.
I can run a jumper from terminal 1 to terminal 4 and the brake lights do come on.
I've tested all 3 new switches with a multi meter. On all 3 switches terminals 2 &3 are open in the pushed position and make contact in the released position. just as they should
However, terminals 1 &4 do NOT make contact in either position
It keeps coming up as a bad switch. But 3 different brand new switches form 3 separate vendors all being bad? Am I missing something here?
I recently bought a 2011 Escape XLT. I discovered the brake lights don't work.
Let me preface this by saying I'm a retired truck and equipment mechanic. While I never worked on cars much, I can generally fix whatever comes up. The principals are all the same.
So I got to checking into the problem. I have power to the switch. I can run a jumper on the connector and the brakes lights do come on. Simple right, bad switch. But a new switch didn't fix it. In fact I've tried three new switches, the last one being a Ford factory switch. None of them work. I tested all 3 with a multi-meter and none are showing a connection. 🤬
Has anybody ever heard of this before or have any idea what the Hell is going on? What am I missing?
Just replaced the solenoid on my 2007 Escape. drives good in town but if you get it up to around 45 to 50 mph it acts like it cuts out and has no pulling power. Came back checked the fluid level and is good. Just really at wits end right now. Only thing I can think of something did not get put back 100% correctly when I rebuilt it. Not looking forward to tearing it down again. When I took it apart to rebuild it only thing major I found was a broken forward clutch hub. Then was replaced with a new one. Of course all the clutches and etc where worn out to be expected. Just need some good advice right now. THANKS . Or if anybody knows somebody I could call and talk to about this let me know.
Hey Hey there. My 2016 Escape has some major rust bubblidge on the passenger front corner of the hood. I haven't had a play-around vehicle in a long time, and I like odd stuff, so I plan on modifying this Escape once my wife is done with it. That being said I will be eventually modifying the hood further. I don't have a preference whether I buy steel or fiberglass, I just want to hear about anyone's experience in different brands, quality, steel, or fiberglass, whatnot. If I get the steel, do I immediately grind off that strange bondo-like seal around the edge and re-seal it myself to prevent this from occurring again? Any input welcome, thanks folks.
I came for the identical issue, so I'm guessing its common. Also guessing there isn't a good solution. I took a Dremel to mine and it looks just as bad on the inside as the outside. It's beginning to travel to the center of the hood under that strange bondo lip. I wonder how the aftermarket fiberglass hoods are for the Escape? Good Luck!
I have a 2006 Ford Escape 4 CLY. It is slow to start. Today I turned the switch on and I could hear a faint noise like a motor or relay humning.. I continued to hold the key in the start position never released it for about 5-7 seconds. The faint noise stopped and then it started. I turned it off and it restarted easily. This has been happening for about 3 weeks. If I retry several times (on/off-on/off. it will finally start. Once it had the rachette sound like a low battery. I charged the almost new battery 3 mo NAPPA. I thought it could be it had lost the ground. I tested with the positive post and the frame and it has good ground. No check engine lights appear. Runs like it should after starting. I have not tested for engine codes. I am thinking...Alternator, relay, starter switch. loose wire. Any suggestions.
Ok guys, do not want to come across as a jerk. But on all my posts I get several views but no response. What gives. People just don't have any answers or afraid to give out advice anymore. Thought that is what the forum is for.
Just rebuilt the CD4E un my 2007 Escape took for a test drive around 45 wont shift and slips came home checked the fluid and it was a qt low. So then my wife drove it still doing the same thing. Plus when backing up she said almost did not want to go in reverse. Feeling very down and frustrated at this time. Looking for advice right now. Could it be that the solenoid is bad. Tempted to drain the fluid and replace it. Should be fairly easy to do. Hope i didnt do something wrong when I rebuilt it. Thanks.