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1 month update  (5-6 weeks actually).   I really like the interior and seats.  very comfortable.  Had Taurus and Explorer before this, so was worried it would feel small.  It doesn't.  Have figured out the controls pretty well.  Hardest thing to find while driving is hvac fan up and down.  Far outside at top each side.  Wish on off button for hvac was on 1st knob, not a stand alone.  small worries.  29 mpg overall, with most of that on the highway going to and from work.  I think the auto on off at stop lights really helps mpg.  freaked me out when it 1st did it.      

Trying to find out the bolt size to press on my camshaft pulley after replacing water pump.

Hi everyone, I’m Sheldon from Toronto, Ontario Canada and I drive my lovely 2018 Ford Escape Titanium. Where is everyone from? 

I have 2020 that I bought in June I’ve only used regular. I’ve had 33.9 mpg last month. I’ve been trying out the sport mode and mpg is going down because I’m speeding up. 

Now they are available from Ford Accessories, Genuine Ford parts and sell for about + -  $150.00. There is another one of the same design only made of stainless steel rather than the 
$150.00 aluuminum ones and I think they go for around $320.00 + - Has anyone had any information here on installing them, build quality or just a review ?  My Escape is a 2018 and I am disabled. I get out of my Escape, stand and grab the front to rear side rails to support myself and hand to hand scoot back to the rear side window, open the rear door and remove my crutches and then am able to walk. The pull on the rails is no slight pull and crossbars would tighten and strengthen my movement safety. And...... facilitate roof rack duty occasionally to boot. Any opinions ?  I LOVE my Ford Escape.

So this is a really specific question - I have a kill switch system that can be spliced into the wire that comes from the ignition switch (the blue wire coming from Ignition Switch "Start" position 3 in the diagram below from an older model Escape).  BUT, the kill switch system will draw close to 200mA, and I'm afraid the ignition switch circuit might not be able to handle that.   So my question is, does anyone know how many Amps are flowing through that wire during starting?  Long shot, but it would be amazing if someone did know.  My alternative is to cut the wire and use an ammeter, but it's my friend's Escape, so he might not like that.  

I would like to get some information on a question I've been wondering about. Is it possible to swap out the OEM steering wheel on the 2004 Ford Escape to one from the 2008 or 2009 Escape? Probably using an adapter or hub.

Update:    ok the things I did to start my Escape were intermitant.  I tried again pushing the Key in when I turned the key from RUN to START.  This now works every time.  It does indeed seem like the Ignition Lock Interface is the problem! Ford cars like the Fusion, Focus and sport-utility vehicles like the Ford Escape, Explorer and Mazda Tribute built in the 2000 decade may experience starting problems. The symptoms of Ford ignition lock problems include a stuck lock that won’t move or turning the key and nothing happens. This can cause drivers to go on a wild goose chase.

Sometimes car owners and do-it-yourself mechanics start with replacing the car battery, starter and alternator for the wrong reasons. The cars I worked on had issues with the plastic linkage that connects the ignition key to the ignition switch on the other side of the column.

Ford cars like the Fusion, Focus and sport-utility vehicles like the Ford Escape, Explorer and Mazda Tribute built in the 2000 decade may experience starting problems. The symptoms of Ford ignition lock problems include a stuck lock that won’t move or turning the key and nothing happens. This can cause drivers to go on a wild goose chase.

Sometimes car owners and do-it-yourself mechanics start with replacing the car battery, starter and alternator for the wrong reasons. The cars I worked on had issues with the plastic linkage that connects the ignition key to the ignition switch on the other side of the column.

Ford cars like the Fusion, Focus and sport-utility vehicles like the Ford Escape, Explorer and Mazda Tribute built in the 2000 decade may experience starting problems. The symptoms of Ford ignition lock problems include a stuck lock that won’t move or turning the key and nothing happens. This can cause drivers to go on a wild goose chase.

Sometimes car owners and do-it-yourself mechanics start with replacing the car battery, starter and alternator for the wrong reasons. The cars I worked on had issues with the plastic linkage that connects the ignition key to the ignition switch on the other side of the column.