We have 238,000 miles on our 2016 Escape Titanium, 2.5L engine. Within the past couple of months we've experienced engine stall while in motion. Restart sounded like it may be caused by water in the fuel, but fairly sure it wasn't/isn't. Cure was to let the engine stay off for several, sometimes multiple several, minutes, and then it starts as if there were no problems. My question is, could the evaporative emission control be the culprit, and if so, how is it rectified? Thanks in advance!
I've got a 12 volt radar detector located much lower on the windshield and the 12 volts powers off after I turn off the vehicle and exit it for a period of time, a few minutes, I haven't timed it, maybe less. I've always powered off my radar detector manually so I can check the voltage indicator of the radar detector on accessory if the car has been sitting around too long without being driven. It's a holdover habit from my dead battery days with my previous car.
There's a lot of cameras and virtual driving sensors in the large black area behind the rear view mirror. You'd be right to wonder if something heavily magnetic could adversely affect your car's cruise control or auto driving features. There's got to be circuit boards back there that probably don't like extra magnetic fields that aren't earth fields.
Over on the Edge forum, someone posted how to disable the hands-free liftgate feature, using Forscan.
I would like to do the same on my 2020 Escape, but when I go into the BodyCM configuration in Forscan, I don't see the Handsfree Liftgate item they mentioned.
The only Handsfree Features are "Initial Value", Personal 1 - 4, and "Vehicle". I've tried disabling these, but the kick-to-open "feature" still operates.
Does anybody know if this can be turned off on an Escape? Short of that, there's talk of unplugging a connector, but how to get to it on an Escape?
(It's trying to kill me - it frequently starts closing while we're standing there.)
Hey Steve K
The DSP module did finally arrive and was installed at the end of Oct. Working fine ......... so far. In the end the shop manager shop showed me how to reset the DSP but by the time the module arrived a reset was only lasting a day or two. The reset is as described by Escapeee. I also asked the service manager why they they just could'nt pull a module from a vehicle on the lot. He said they could'nt because they are VIN specific. Not sure I buy that. Should be able to reprogram one. Frustrating. Good luck.
Hello all, I'm in a new-to-me 2020 Titanium AWD. It has 30K miles on it, I've owned it for less than 1K miles. I intend to install my dash cam into this one (just like my last four vehicles), with a constant power cable for recording incidents with the engine off. If the camera model matters at all for my question, it's a Garmin Tandem dash cam, and will have the Garmin "parking mode cable" professionally installed, using the fuse panel behind the glove box for the connections.
My question is: What technology is in the "tech module" (I don't know what else to call it) that is located above/in front of the rearview mirror? The reason I ask, is because the attachment method for that series of Garmin dash cams is a small but very strong neodymium magnet, and optimal placement would be right at the bottom edge of that tech cluster (see the red circle in the attached photo). It's a small but powerful circular (actually more octagonal) magnet that will go where the red circle in the photo is. So, I don't know what tech is IN there (I've looked, I can't seem to find an answer), and therefore I'm not sure if a strong magnet located about 1/4" below it would affect anything - OR - if any of the tech located in the tech cluster would adversely affect a dash cam that records to SD card.
I guess since I'm here I should also mention that there will be the power cable (attached to the camera via Micro SD) running right along side the RIGHT hand side (passenger side) of the tech cluster, held in place by a few small, clear wire clips. I don't think that will have any effect, since it's small gauge wire and is insulated of course, but thought I'd mention it anyway.
So, that's my question - does anybody know what all is in there or if there would be any adverse effect by mounting my dash cam in that location? I've been running a dash cam for about 8 years now, in three other vehicles before this one, and I HIGHLY recommend that EVERYONE just get one installed. It helped my prove my innocence in TWO different accidents, and it's just an added layer of safety (for your finances and assets...it's not going to protect your car or you, but it could save you from a lot of "he said/she said" scenarios.), should anything happen out there.
My 2012 must have had replacement bodywork before I met it. It is V-6, and either AWD or automatically engaged 4WD. I don't even know the trim model, (LTD, XLS, XLT), and I wondered if someone could enlighten me on a link that could give me the details my car from the VIN.
I have an AGM battery (760 CCA) in my 2021 Escape which is a big plus up over my old regular battery in my old car. I thought I read that the 2023 Escapes discontinued installing AGM batteries from the factory and went back to regular batteries. I don't know why they would do that. I still got a notice on my Ford Pass app that my battery went into power saving mode after not having been in the car after 5 days during autumn weather. I expect that might get cut down to 3 days when winter weather comes, but I don't know yet. My old car battery used to die after 5 days on non-use and would require a jump. I've got jumper stuff in the car in case but I might have to use the mechanical key to get in the door if it comes to that. I have to use a USB drive to update the car software since the wi-fi is too weak to download a gigabyte from the parking lot. Maybe I could use my phone's hotspot to get the software. I'll drive 20 miles to recharge the battery if I get a battery in energy saving mode alert. If the battery is dead, I'll drive 100 miles to recharge it after a jump.
Hey all! Looking for some advise on what could be causing a fuel smell at startup? Goes away fairly quickly. No codes presently but did have a P0452 that cleared when I replaced the gas cap and hasn’t come back. No visible fuels leaks. Any suggestions or same problems that you’ve encountered and fixes would be great. Thanks!
Not really. The second time it happened, when the audio system was dead, I took it into the dealer. This was something tangible that I thought they could diagnose. However, they kept it at the dealership for about a week, without giving me any updates about it. I finally told them I needed the vehicle back. I drove it back home and parked it in my garage, The next morning it was dead, as I mentioned. After the jump, the sound system worked normally. A few weeks after that incident, the Ford dealership left a message with me that the part needed to fix the sound system had just come in, and they were ready to replace it. However, I felt that that part was no longer needed, since everything was working fine. I never took the car back to be "repaired."
Right now I'm resigned to suffer an occasional software glitch which may, if left unattended, lead to a dead battery. One way to reset the system is to disconnect the 12-volt battery and then reconnect it. This should make everything work again. Production of the 2023 Escape was held up for a whole month in March because of a software issue that affected the instrument panel. The engineers were under a lot of pressure to come up with a fix. I wonder if they really had enough time to test everything out before they released the software.